Long Island in Bloom

The term ‘lawn renovation’ is a little misleading. People don’t usually call a yearly maintenance a ‘renovation’ but I think the term comes from the amazing results you get when you aerate and reseed your lawn – making it look like a brand new landscape.

It is very common to see brown patches even on the greenest stretch of grass. Or sometimes very thin growth. Aerating and reseeding can prevent those from happening. And if you ever wondered while driving through east Long Island, how those huge estates get their sprawling lawns to be the richest green in early spring, well aerating is a key ingredient. It breaks up the compacted Long Island clay soil, which helps irrigate the lawn and also sets the ground work (no pun intended) for applying nutrients and minerals.

Lawn Aeration is going over the entire lawn with motorized power aerator that pulls out plugs from the ground, about 3 inches in length, as it passes over. This creates access to the soil and roots under your lawn, letting a certified Master Arborist apply nutrients and grass seed. The time to do this is in the Fall. And you should leave yourself 4-5 weeks of growing time after you aerate. Don’t wait till the last minute when there is a mad rush to take care of the landscape before the cold weather comes.

The way Sterling Tree Services and Lawn Care aerate is one of the most thorough in the business. First we do a soil test to make sure the conditions are right for aerating and to do a chemical analysis. We then aerate and do a lime application which helps increase the pH levels of the soil. This all effects the growth that will take place. We then fertilize the lawn with nutrients and re-seed. The process usually occurs over the course of a few weeks. In the end, you have a lawn that is just waiting to explode with strong, thick healthy grass. Another important thing to remember is that weed killers cannot be used at the same time as you re-seed. This is why for Long Island lawns, you need to re-seed in the Fall and spray for weeds in the Spring.

The makeup of clay soil is different than loose sand and therefore requires different lawn watering techniques. The tiny particles that cling together in clay soil cause it to cling well to water. Because of its high density, it will take longer to soak up water but on the good side, it will take longer to release it as well. In setting up your sprinkler system it is advisable to get an idea of how much of the soil underneath your green lawn is made up of thick, dense clay soil.

Before we talk about lawn watering, lets see if we can get an indication of what soil lies underneath your front lawn. Simply scoop up some soil in your hand and squeeze it together. Then release your hand and see if the soil sticks together in a ball. The more clay there is in the soil the less brittle it will be. One thing to note is that if there is a high consistency of clay, it is recommended to do a good aerating once or twice a year by a tree service and lawn expert. This will break up compacted soil and let the roots of trees get the water and nourishment they need. Find out more about aeration in future blog posts.

When working with clay soils, avoid automatic watering systems, especially those designed for turf grasses. Landscape plants in clay soils are often drown by automatic watering systems. The sprinkler system should be set according to the weather conditions outside

The makeup of clay soil is different than loose sand and therefore requires different lawn watering techniques. The tiny particles that cling together in clay soil cause it to cling well to water. Because of its high density, it will take longer to soak up water but on the good side, it will take longer to release it as well. In setting up your sprinkler system it is advisable to get an idea of how much of the soil underneath your green lawn is made up of thick, dense clay soil.

Before we talk about lawn watering, lets see if we can get an indication of what soil lies underneath your front lawn. Simply scoop up some soil in your hand and squeeze it together. Then release your hand and see if the soil sticks together in a ball. The more clay there is in the soil the less brittle it will be.

Another way to perform soil testing is to dig a hole in you back yard and fill it with water. If the water does not get absorbed quickly or drain out, then most likely you have a high percentage of clay soil.

One thing to note is that if there is a high consistency of clay, it is recommended to do a good aerating once or twice a year by a tree service and lawn expert. This will break up compacted soil and let the roots of trees get the water and nourishment they need. Find out more about aeration in future blog posts.

General lawn watering instructions are 25 minutes in the early morning and 10 minutes in the afternoon. Clay soil will need less than this because of poor drainage. When working with clay soils, avoid automatic watering systems, especially those designed for turf grasses. Landscape plants in clay soils are often drown by automatic watering systems. The sprinkler system should be set according to the weather conditions outside what kind of plants and trees are being watered.

Before getting into a routine of watering do some tests to see how much water your plants need. Check a few inches below the soil surface. The top may be dry, but it could still be wet enough down where the roots are. If you see standing water or mushrooms on the grass you should be watering less. Also when laying down landscape plants in clay soils remember to plant early in the season so they will have adequate time to send out new roots before the ground freezes in fall.

If you would like to call me or send an email, I can tell you with a high degree of accuracy, using topological maps of Long Island, what kind of soil you have on your property. I can also come to examine your lawn sprinklers and irrigation system to make sure your entire landscape is getting the water it needs.